Copan Ruinas to Antigua to Caye Caulker

Day 10-Copan Ruinas to Antigua
This morning I had set my alarm to wake me up at 5, but there was no need as the rooseter crowed outside around 4:30 am. I wanted to kill it. I went ahead and go up, then left some words of advice in the hostel gust book. In the shuttle mini bus the driver packed 27 people inside, not counting the 3 babies that were crying. In Chiquimula we caught a bus to Guatemala City; it's only 7 am and I wouild give anything to see a Starbcks right now. A coca cola will have to do and I settle in the seat behind the driver for the three hour bus ride to GC. On the way he is passing cars like a NASCAR driver and I am pretty sure I am going to die. Once arriving in GC, it is dirty and polluted; htere is traffic everywhere, even though Kyle Britten has sworn to me that there is a Westin here somewhere. I see a sign for a McDonald's, so I am obvioudly back in civilization. At the bus stop, we head righ into McDonald's and I get a Big Mac, after 1 1/2 weeks of travling, sometimes you just need a taste of home. Once back outside, a scumbag taxi driver refuses to give us directions to Zone 3, which is where the bus to Antigua is and this city is disgusting. Another taxi will take us to the bus station, but I don't speak as he is telling Jorge that he hates Americans. Awesome. At the bus stop my backpack barely fite in the rack above my head, but I am not letting it out of my sight. I know for sure I am in a red zone from the DOS and after this posting will be receiving some words of anger from my mother or Aunt Carolyn Poe. In Antigua, we find a place to stay, despite being told the city is sold out 4 months ahead of Semana Santa. We are so tired, we just throw down our bags and don't even catch the name of our hostel. I head to the middle of Antigua and start snapping photos-it is beautiful, the lamp postas, fountains, architecture, there are cobblestone streets. It could be Charleston. There are many churches; I visited Iglesia de San Francisco, Catedral de Santiago, and Iglesia y Convento Nuestro Senora de la Merced. In the middle of town is the Parque Central, which is the gathering place and has beautiful fountains. I also saw the Palacio de los capitenes. Since I wanted to hike a volcano, we cheked out tours and booked one with a sketchy guy on the street. He wasn't too convincing, and then he walked us into another tour company who vouched for him...his name was Manolo and after some bargaining we paid $40 QZ each so tomorrow we will hike Volcano Pacaya. Tonight I just want to get clean, I am so dirty, I want to put on some real woman clothes and feel like a lady. I need a manicure and pedicure. Apparently 1 1/2 weeks without makeup is my limit b/c all the other girls in this town look like they fell out of bed w/out trying and I look like the smelly backpacker I am. So, I came back and took a nice shower, cleaned up and put on the one dress I am backpacking through CA with. We go out to dinner, although I don't think Jorge recognized his backpacking buddy. For dinner we go to La Fonda de la Calle Real, where I attempt to order a martini (in the middle of Guatemala...hey, if they have vodka, I can make it happen). When I return home, I go to the roof, sit down, look at the starts and the volcanoes surrounding town. I am very thankful to be here, for all the new friends I am making and the great time I am having.

Day 11-Antigua
Once again my TIMEX is set for 5:30 am, but there is a new rooster crowing. I look and it says 1:30 am...I am going to KILL that rooster and make him into soup...he crows all night! Finally, my alarm goes off and it is time to hike the volcano! YEAH!!! Something I have never done before.!! We wait on the corner for the shuttle for 30 minutes and are sure that Manolo has run off with our QZ$. Finally, it pulls up...everyone has food bug us. The drive is long, Manolo didn't say anything about a drive, he just showed us pictures of lave and rock. We are basically heading back to GC. We are also passing a lot of food places. Finally, a road and we get there. I ask where the restroom is and a little girl says 'Follow the chickens...' ha ha There are dogs eveywhere, and since I think my roommate Jessica has rabbies since she just got bit by a dog, this is hilarious. The hike to the volcano begins, by a guide who only speaks Spanish. Hmmm...are walkie talkies available? I go through a forest and dirt road, you can take a horse, so I must watch out for manure along the way. It's pretty strenuous, even for me, which Manolo also didn't mention as he was swindling me on the street. At least my camelback is full of water. Soon we come to a clearing and see the volcano, as the clouds move, you can see the top and it is beautiful. I soon find out that there are a few girls from Oregion on my tour and let them know I have some good friends in SD who are big duck fans, too! As we summit to the laava, the smoke filled air is very harsh on my lunch; if Aunt Kelli was here, her asthma would definately kick up. This tour is def dangerous as I am soon climbing over heated rocks, which are very sharp and jagged...no waivers were signed... and when I reach the flowing lave my legs feel as if they are going to peel off. The tour guide pokes his stick in the fire and kicks it up even more; people's shoes are beginning to melt. That was amazing thoug, I just hikes a volcano in Guatemala! The climb down is all downhill and hard on my knees. On the way back I meet a girl named Irene from Switzerland and the three of us go to lunch. Next, the children have their Semana Santa procession...the boys are dressed in deep purple robes and the girls in white lace dresses. The old men are in black suits with band instruments and the music starts. At 6 pm, I head to the main plaza and meet Kelly, my friend from SD, who's here in the Peace Corps. We haven't seen each other since Aug, so the hugs are lo9ng and hard. She introduces me to her friend Rob, and the 3 of us head to a bar called Kafka, where we pick up Jorge on the way. Rob tells us there is a Cuban band playing salsa at Ricky's, so we head over and dance until 1 am! It was so fun; the cuba libres and Brahva's were flowing, the music was loud and the dance floor was packed. I needed some lessons, and anyone who has ever danced with me knows I am not a good follower, so I'll be heading to Cafe Sevilla more when I return home, but oh' what fun!

Days 12 and 13-Antigua to Caye Caulker
This morning I met Kelly by the coffee shop in Antigua's market square. She takes me to breakfast at Dona Luisa's, where I have pancakes-they are very good. We catch up w/each other and discuss Guatemalan/Cent Amer politics. For two strong, ind women, it is hard for us to see women so repressed here. Soon after, we head to trade in my Hemingway "Old Man and the Sea" book, which I read on this trip. I decide to donate it to the PC library instead. Since it's market day in Antigua, we head over; it's important to keep an eye on your backpack here, so I attach it to my front. There are children as young as 4 working to shine shoes and sell fruit. At Kelli's house near Antigua, the young girls help to make 400 tortillas a day and shell peas, which will be sent to Green Giant. In the market, I only buy a shot glass for my collection, as everything has been marked up for Semana Santa. In the streets, they are being painted for the celebration. The carpet colors are a deep purple, red, yellow, and green. There are patterns of crosses, flowers and heart. The painters hands are stained from the long hours of work. There are hundreds of tourists working-it is like the 4th of July in PB. At 6 pm the bus to GC is supposed to pick us up, but at 6:30 I am still waiting, so I head to get a burrito. Soon, the guy comes and we end up following him about 20 blocks to the other side of Antigua-I have officially walked ALL OVER this city and am so ready to get to Caye Caulker. In the shuttle there is a funny lady who shares her experiences of the last few weeks-they mimick mine. Once in GC, we are dropped off at the bus station to connect in Flores. The city is dirty and dangerous. We will arrive in Flores at 5 am. Once the bus gets going there is a 'problem' with the clutch and the driver goes around the block twice before heading back for maintenance repairs. Oh, lord! Soon, we leave the city and I experience the worst nights sleep ever...and I have slept in a lot of different places...airports, camp, aunts/grandmas floors...the road is windy/bumpy/cold/uncomfortable and I just want the hell out of Guatemala. How long is it until I get to Caye Caulker. Turns out it takes me 19 hours to get from Antigua to Caye Caulker, but now I have arrived. 2 buses and 1 water taxi later I rolled up to the beautiful caribbean water and 5 steps off the boat I grabbed my room. The warm weather has finally arrived and 30 minutes after checking into my room I had on a snorkel mask and was on another boat jumping in the water. This afternoon I snorkeled 2 coral reefs and with sting rays. That was one of the scariest things I have ever done in my life!!! My heart was beating so fast but it was so amazing. Tonight I am going to hang out with my new hostel mates, including the German guy who's been here for a week now and knows everyone on the island. He only walks around in his speedo and likes to call me 'Jenny from Czechoslovakia.' I said call me whatever you want, but don't call me Jenny. On Sunday there's a huge celebration on this island (which is officially in the middle of nowhere and I LOVE IT) which will include a BBQ, music, beach volleyball, etc. and I can not wait. I am staying here until Wednesday when I catch a plane to NC for a few days and then down to Miami for a cruise around Jamaica/Grand Cayman. At this rate, I am never, ever coming back to SD. Love you all!