Tuesday, March 25, 2008-Day 17-Caye Caulker, Belize
Last night I headed over to Syd's restaurant, a local favorite on the island, known for their fried chicken platter. I tried to order it, but the guy told me that it would take almost an hour, so I splurged on the fried shrimp platter; which costs $18 BZ. Everything here is the same price as in the US, they just double it on the menu. It ends up taking nearly 45 minutes anyway, but once it arrives it is well worth the wait...the mashed potatoes are the best I've had since I last made my own and for a moment I think Syd has somehow gotten ahold of my own recipe. There is a creepy guy at the bar who keeps trying to make small talk with me, so at this moment I think it's important to write that there are 2 types of men in Central America...there are locals (those born and raised here) and American transplants (those who are retired or divorced and forced to move here b/c of the restraining order put on them by their ex-wives).
This morning I woke up early and went exploring the island. This didn't take long as Caye Caulker is only 4 miles long and about 650 yards wide. All the island is sand...there are no roads and no cars; only about 20 golf carts, which are shared by everyone. Early in the morning it's mostly kids ont he streets, riding their bikes without any shoes on. No one here wears shoes in fact, and I have found myself doing the same. The houses aren't really houses, just shacks-wooden 2x4's on top of 4 poles-painted bright colors of turquoise blue and flamingo pink-it's a crayon box gone wild. Everyone has their laundry hanging in their backyard and trash litters the street. This is the part not written in the travel books. There is trash EVERYWHERE. Yesterday I watched a lady unwrap a snickers bar and throw it on the ground. If the 2nd largest barrier feer wasn't just a mile away, this island would certainly never see tourism. After enjoying some nice coffee and a cinnamon roll for only $1.50 BZ (75 cents US) at a place called Glenda's, I walk to check and see if my Turneffe tour is heading out today, but it turns out the wind is still a little to much for the boat.
Instead, I signed up with EZ-BOYZ tours to go to Hol Chan Marine Reserve, Shark Ray Alley, and the Northern Cayes. On the trip out there the water is choppy from the wind and I get scared as we bounce up and down. O close my eyes and imagine my tour guide Salvador is really George Clooney from that movie with Mark Wahlberg, so that when we sink it's George I'm gonna die with, not Salvador. We end up making it to the N. Caye safely. There are seven people on my tour, one guy and six women, they are all from Canada and I'm the lone American. After hopping in the water, I realize that my day is about to be spent in a huge grown up aquarium! I saved the best snorkeling day for last. Right away I see fish so big they don't fit in the lens of my camera! Salvador leads me to more green moray eels and I find out those blue fish I like are called blue chromis. There is something called a peacock flounder, which floats on the bottom and is just as beautiful as the bird. Just as I am enjoying all of this the Canadian guy kicks me in the face with his flippers. Okay, once no harm, but then he does it 4 times! So do the other family members-if you don't know how to snorkel, then DON'T COME! You don't see me coming to Canada and riding a moose, do you? Our next stop is Shark Ray Alley; we have been told there are nurse sharks and as soon as we pull up they swarm the boat. The Canadian wife sceams 'I'm not going in there'...good, more for me to photograph! I jump in and as soon as I do I realize what the hell I just did...there are 7 nurse sharks right beside me...okay...just breathe. More stingrays follow and as I get back in the boat I look behind me just to make sure "JAWS" isn't back there. The boat heads into San Pedro for lunch, which is North of Caye Caulker on Ambergis Caye. This is where the resorts are, more nice restaurants too. Ambergis is about 25 miles long and its Northern side adjoins MX. For lunch I head to Elvi's, a local place known for great seafood. I think about a salad (for like a mili-second) and decide it's my last day in Belize, so I go with the lunch special of fried conch, fried shrimp and fried fish w/ fried french fries. YUMMY!!! A Carribbean Breeze completes it and I enjoy a very nice lunch all to myself.
At 3 pm the group reconvenes and we head to our last stop at Hol Chan Marine Reserve, the 1st marine reserve established in Central America. The park encompasses about 5 square miles of protected area and is 100 feet deep in some parts!! It's dotted with coral formations and I feel like NEMO! I see the biggest fish in my life, like grouper and barracuda, but the main thing I notice is the hundreds of schools of fish. Often times I think they are coral formation and then realize it's a school of fish. There is a cave Salvador says we can swim through, but I can't hold my breath that long. I have learned to pressurize my ears though, so I am able to swim deeper and get better photos. As I swim out, I suddently come to the 100 foot drop off, which scares the crap out of me, so I think it's best to turn around; who KNOWS what might be lingering out there, looking for my yellow fins? On the boat ride home, everyone begins noticing my camera and suddenly wants to be my friend. The Canadian guy become real chatty; however, until he takes a few swimming lessons I'm not that interested in discussing Olympus photography with him. My mouth is very salty from all the water today and I'm really looking forward to brushing my teeth tonight.
When I return to the island I find that a BBQ is planned at the hostel for everyone's last night, so I shower and cleanup before we all head to the veggie market. ON the menu: rice, veggie curry, tuna salad/bread, fresh fish and rum punch. There are 20 of us peeling potatoes, chopping onions, mixing rice-someone puts their IPhone into some speakers and the dancing starts! A party is going on, stories are flying and friendships are being made. Tomorrow I will leave Belize, most of my new Caye Caulker friends will head to Western Belize or North to Mexico. Tonight was the perfect way to end my time on the island.
Wednesday, March 26-Day 18-Caye Caulker, Belize to Clayton, North Carolina
Today I woke up and finished packing my backpack. I went to Gladys' again for some coffee and drank it as I watched the sunrise over the ocean. I said goodbye to everyone in Caye Caulker and caught the 8:30 am water taxi to Belize City. I approached a couple to see if they wanted to split the cab fare to the airport, so we shared a ride; when I got tot he airport the driver tried to up the price (double it in fact from $25 BZ to $50 BZ) and I told him "NO." So, then he went to the male of the couple as I simply walked over to US Airways to check in. I had no problem checking in, but I was a little worried about my luggage since I'm meeting mom and dad in Charlotte and not continuing on to San Diego; the bag is tagged to SD. There was no food in the Belize airport-only 4 Duty Free shops so I waited until the plane to buy food. Although US Airways mastercard urges you to shop on the plane with your plastic, the lady would only accept cash and then wouldn't take my Belizian dollars (funny how that works) so she told me I owed her $7 for my stupid airline sandwich, but she never came calling. The plane ride to Charlotte was short...only 3 hours and 15 minutes...but once I landed I got stuck at US Customs behind another plane from Jamaica and EVERYONE had hit up the duty free there with their bottles of liquor. My parents were very excited to see me and I ran through the airport to give my mom a big hug! On the way to Clayton I shared some stories (mainly mom wanted to know why I picked such dangerous places to go visit) and we stopped to get some American food-a nice big, healthy salad. Once arriving in Clayon (or C-town as we call it) I got a nice night's sleep with no roosters and spent today doing my laundry. I am on a tight schedule though as tomorrow we ship out at 1:30 prompt for Miami where I'll sail around the Carribbean for a week on the Carnival Imagination. Keep you updated and see you soon! Happy Birthday to all my friends!
Thursday, March 27, 2008
Monday, March 24, 2008
Caye Caulker, Belize
Saturday March 22, Day 14-
Last night I joined my 2 new friends, Nathan from San Diego, and Jirgen from Germany, at the islands sports bar for Trivia Night. Nathan has won the last two times so there is pressure. Obviously they have never played trivial pursuit with me...however, b/t the three of us we don't miss any sports questions, but we come in a dissapointing 4th due to some lame question regarding whether or not you can bite into someones hamburger in Oklahoma. This morning I woke up and did nothing. I slept late and then put on my bikini. Then I threw on some sunscreen and took my towel 20 steps out to the pier with my book "The Kite Runner" where I read for a few hours. When I got hot, I moved to the shade of the hammock and listened to my IPOD. In the afternoon, I watched Dave, from Rhode Island, catch live Barracuda with his bare hands and a baby nurse shark. It was like Survivor. He went ahead and borrowed some tackle from Rob, from Toronto, and went out a little farther to catch more-then Rob fileted them in front of my eyes while Amy and I made rice and potatoes and a big BBQ was had by everyone at the hostel. Tommy, a chef from Pittsburgh, threw together a fresh cucumber/tomato salad and we enjoyed the feast as the sun went down. That night Christy, from Milwaukee, and I went to the Bamboo Bar...where the floor is sand and the chairs are swings...and had pina coladas, before a group of us attempted to find a bonfire. We had to settle for a bonfire, which isn't my style, so I headed home and went to bed. Tomorrow I have a full day of snorkeling to Turneffe Atoll, where we will see sea turtles! YEAH!
Sunday, March 23-Day 15
Today I awoke for a full day of snorkeling. Louise, from London, who has been traveling for 2 years after quitting her job after 6 years (hmm...ideas?), heads over with me and we find out both our tours are canceled. So, we go to Tsunami tours and sign up for a 9:30 am snorkel trip to see manatees and Shark Ray alley, and Caye Chapel Aquarium. On the boat ride out, the guide lets me steer the boat! It's a good thing Jason lets me steer his sailboat and has prepped me for this a little bit...people actually think I know what I am doing. At our 1st stop, we see about 5 manatees and one dolphin so big I think it is a shark...he is in the mangroves. We head to St. George's Caye for lunch, a secluded island that has no grocery stores and where the homes don't go for less than $1 million US (Michael Jordan has a home here). This is a postcard place-it is so beautiful. I have a fish sandwich and a FANTA (the "official" drink of the islands), then we head to Caye Chapel Aquarium for more snorkeling. The coral is so beautiful; radiant colors of purple and gold-I go swimming down so deep that my ears are popping, but I want to see the fish!! There are little blue ones that are my favorite; however, we also sea a sea cucumber and turtles which I get to hold! We go to Stingray Alley again-I am not afraid of them anymore! On the way home there's a cool breeze and it's very peaceful. This evening I gave out travel advice to people going to San Ignacio and Tikal before showering and heading to the sports bar for tria night. There are 8 of us from the hostel, so we divide into 2 teams; mine is me, Vicky from London, Jergin, and Christy. We win! I must say that the last question involved what year was the Superbowl played in San Diego...1998! Thank you very much-I LEAD MY TEAM TO VICTORY! We won $50 BZ so we drink to our win and have some chicken nachos. Then we all head home and get some sleep-many people are leaving tomorrow. But not me, I have another long day of sleeping late, sunbathing and reading. Today I finished "The Kite Runner." It is a hard life I am beginning to discover.
Monday, March 24-Day 16
This morning I woke up to hard rainstorms outside. For a while they subsided and I hit the pier to read my new book, but soon the rain came back. After a nice lunch of fresh watermelon, papaya, and pineapple/granola/yogurt I get a Scrabble game going. (I haven't been backpacking with travel Scrabble for no reason). Of course my roomie is an English major, so this game is deadly, but in the end I am out of letters first; however, she still wins. There is no better way to pass a rainy day. I have some Aussie hostel mates who are playing now, but a different version called "Speed Scrabble" and they're gonna teach me when I come back...it doesn't involve the board. After Scrabble we all treated ourselves to ice cream (Dad, I have tried ice cream all over Central America) and walked down to the split. Then I took a nap. That was pretty much it today. On Wednesday I leave Caye Caulker and head to North Carolina for a few days-thank goodness, a hot shower, my own bed, mom' s loving touch, Chick-fil-A-before heading down to Miami and catching the cruise ship around the Caribbean. Hope you are all well.
Last night I joined my 2 new friends, Nathan from San Diego, and Jirgen from Germany, at the islands sports bar for Trivia Night. Nathan has won the last two times so there is pressure. Obviously they have never played trivial pursuit with me...however, b/t the three of us we don't miss any sports questions, but we come in a dissapointing 4th due to some lame question regarding whether or not you can bite into someones hamburger in Oklahoma. This morning I woke up and did nothing. I slept late and then put on my bikini. Then I threw on some sunscreen and took my towel 20 steps out to the pier with my book "The Kite Runner" where I read for a few hours. When I got hot, I moved to the shade of the hammock and listened to my IPOD. In the afternoon, I watched Dave, from Rhode Island, catch live Barracuda with his bare hands and a baby nurse shark. It was like Survivor. He went ahead and borrowed some tackle from Rob, from Toronto, and went out a little farther to catch more-then Rob fileted them in front of my eyes while Amy and I made rice and potatoes and a big BBQ was had by everyone at the hostel. Tommy, a chef from Pittsburgh, threw together a fresh cucumber/tomato salad and we enjoyed the feast as the sun went down. That night Christy, from Milwaukee, and I went to the Bamboo Bar...where the floor is sand and the chairs are swings...and had pina coladas, before a group of us attempted to find a bonfire. We had to settle for a bonfire, which isn't my style, so I headed home and went to bed. Tomorrow I have a full day of snorkeling to Turneffe Atoll, where we will see sea turtles! YEAH!
Sunday, March 23-Day 15
Today I awoke for a full day of snorkeling. Louise, from London, who has been traveling for 2 years after quitting her job after 6 years (hmm...ideas?), heads over with me and we find out both our tours are canceled. So, we go to Tsunami tours and sign up for a 9:30 am snorkel trip to see manatees and Shark Ray alley, and Caye Chapel Aquarium. On the boat ride out, the guide lets me steer the boat! It's a good thing Jason lets me steer his sailboat and has prepped me for this a little bit...people actually think I know what I am doing. At our 1st stop, we see about 5 manatees and one dolphin so big I think it is a shark...he is in the mangroves. We head to St. George's Caye for lunch, a secluded island that has no grocery stores and where the homes don't go for less than $1 million US (Michael Jordan has a home here). This is a postcard place-it is so beautiful. I have a fish sandwich and a FANTA (the "official" drink of the islands), then we head to Caye Chapel Aquarium for more snorkeling. The coral is so beautiful; radiant colors of purple and gold-I go swimming down so deep that my ears are popping, but I want to see the fish!! There are little blue ones that are my favorite; however, we also sea a sea cucumber and turtles which I get to hold! We go to Stingray Alley again-I am not afraid of them anymore! On the way home there's a cool breeze and it's very peaceful. This evening I gave out travel advice to people going to San Ignacio and Tikal before showering and heading to the sports bar for tria night. There are 8 of us from the hostel, so we divide into 2 teams; mine is me, Vicky from London, Jergin, and Christy. We win! I must say that the last question involved what year was the Superbowl played in San Diego...1998! Thank you very much-I LEAD MY TEAM TO VICTORY! We won $50 BZ so we drink to our win and have some chicken nachos. Then we all head home and get some sleep-many people are leaving tomorrow. But not me, I have another long day of sleeping late, sunbathing and reading. Today I finished "The Kite Runner." It is a hard life I am beginning to discover.
Monday, March 24-Day 16
This morning I woke up to hard rainstorms outside. For a while they subsided and I hit the pier to read my new book, but soon the rain came back. After a nice lunch of fresh watermelon, papaya, and pineapple/granola/yogurt I get a Scrabble game going. (I haven't been backpacking with travel Scrabble for no reason). Of course my roomie is an English major, so this game is deadly, but in the end I am out of letters first; however, she still wins. There is no better way to pass a rainy day. I have some Aussie hostel mates who are playing now, but a different version called "Speed Scrabble" and they're gonna teach me when I come back...it doesn't involve the board. After Scrabble we all treated ourselves to ice cream (Dad, I have tried ice cream all over Central America) and walked down to the split. Then I took a nap. That was pretty much it today. On Wednesday I leave Caye Caulker and head to North Carolina for a few days-thank goodness, a hot shower, my own bed, mom' s loving touch, Chick-fil-A-before heading down to Miami and catching the cruise ship around the Caribbean. Hope you are all well.
Friday, March 21, 2008
Copan Ruinas to Antigua to Caye Caulker
Day 10-Copan Ruinas to Antigua
This morning I had set my alarm to wake me up at 5, but there was no need as the rooseter crowed outside around 4:30 am. I wanted to kill it. I went ahead and go up, then left some words of advice in the hostel gust book. In the shuttle mini bus the driver packed 27 people inside, not counting the 3 babies that were crying. In Chiquimula we caught a bus to Guatemala City; it's only 7 am and I wouild give anything to see a Starbcks right now. A coca cola will have to do and I settle in the seat behind the driver for the three hour bus ride to GC. On the way he is passing cars like a NASCAR driver and I am pretty sure I am going to die. Once arriving in GC, it is dirty and polluted; htere is traffic everywhere, even though Kyle Britten has sworn to me that there is a Westin here somewhere. I see a sign for a McDonald's, so I am obvioudly back in civilization. At the bus stop, we head righ into McDonald's and I get a Big Mac, after 1 1/2 weeks of travling, sometimes you just need a taste of home. Once back outside, a scumbag taxi driver refuses to give us directions to Zone 3, which is where the bus to Antigua is and this city is disgusting. Another taxi will take us to the bus station, but I don't speak as he is telling Jorge that he hates Americans. Awesome. At the bus stop my backpack barely fite in the rack above my head, but I am not letting it out of my sight. I know for sure I am in a red zone from the DOS and after this posting will be receiving some words of anger from my mother or Aunt Carolyn Poe. In Antigua, we find a place to stay, despite being told the city is sold out 4 months ahead of Semana Santa. We are so tired, we just throw down our bags and don't even catch the name of our hostel. I head to the middle of Antigua and start snapping photos-it is beautiful, the lamp postas, fountains, architecture, there are cobblestone streets. It could be Charleston. There are many churches; I visited Iglesia de San Francisco, Catedral de Santiago, and Iglesia y Convento Nuestro Senora de la Merced. In the middle of town is the Parque Central, which is the gathering place and has beautiful fountains. I also saw the Palacio de los capitenes. Since I wanted to hike a volcano, we cheked out tours and booked one with a sketchy guy on the street. He wasn't too convincing, and then he walked us into another tour company who vouched for him...his name was Manolo and after some bargaining we paid $40 QZ each so tomorrow we will hike Volcano Pacaya. Tonight I just want to get clean, I am so dirty, I want to put on some real woman clothes and feel like a lady. I need a manicure and pedicure. Apparently 1 1/2 weeks without makeup is my limit b/c all the other girls in this town look like they fell out of bed w/out trying and I look like the smelly backpacker I am. So, I came back and took a nice shower, cleaned up and put on the one dress I am backpacking through CA with. We go out to dinner, although I don't think Jorge recognized his backpacking buddy. For dinner we go to La Fonda de la Calle Real, where I attempt to order a martini (in the middle of Guatemala...hey, if they have vodka, I can make it happen). When I return home, I go to the roof, sit down, look at the starts and the volcanoes surrounding town. I am very thankful to be here, for all the new friends I am making and the great time I am having.
Day 11-Antigua
Once again my TIMEX is set for 5:30 am, but there is a new rooster crowing. I look and it says 1:30 am...I am going to KILL that rooster and make him into soup...he crows all night! Finally, my alarm goes off and it is time to hike the volcano! YEAH!!! Something I have never done before.!! We wait on the corner for the shuttle for 30 minutes and are sure that Manolo has run off with our QZ$. Finally, it pulls up...everyone has food bug us. The drive is long, Manolo didn't say anything about a drive, he just showed us pictures of lave and rock. We are basically heading back to GC. We are also passing a lot of food places. Finally, a road and we get there. I ask where the restroom is and a little girl says 'Follow the chickens...' ha ha There are dogs eveywhere, and since I think my roommate Jessica has rabbies since she just got bit by a dog, this is hilarious. The hike to the volcano begins, by a guide who only speaks Spanish. Hmmm...are walkie talkies available? I go through a forest and dirt road, you can take a horse, so I must watch out for manure along the way. It's pretty strenuous, even for me, which Manolo also didn't mention as he was swindling me on the street. At least my camelback is full of water. Soon we come to a clearing and see the volcano, as the clouds move, you can see the top and it is beautiful. I soon find out that there are a few girls from Oregion on my tour and let them know I have some good friends in SD who are big duck fans, too! As we summit to the laava, the smoke filled air is very harsh on my lunch; if Aunt Kelli was here, her asthma would definately kick up. This tour is def dangerous as I am soon climbing over heated rocks, which are very sharp and jagged...no waivers were signed... and when I reach the flowing lave my legs feel as if they are going to peel off. The tour guide pokes his stick in the fire and kicks it up even more; people's shoes are beginning to melt. That was amazing thoug, I just hikes a volcano in Guatemala! The climb down is all downhill and hard on my knees. On the way back I meet a girl named Irene from Switzerland and the three of us go to lunch. Next, the children have their Semana Santa procession...the boys are dressed in deep purple robes and the girls in white lace dresses. The old men are in black suits with band instruments and the music starts. At 6 pm, I head to the main plaza and meet Kelly, my friend from SD, who's here in the Peace Corps. We haven't seen each other since Aug, so the hugs are lo9ng and hard. She introduces me to her friend Rob, and the 3 of us head to a bar called Kafka, where we pick up Jorge on the way. Rob tells us there is a Cuban band playing salsa at Ricky's, so we head over and dance until 1 am! It was so fun; the cuba libres and Brahva's were flowing, the music was loud and the dance floor was packed. I needed some lessons, and anyone who has ever danced with me knows I am not a good follower, so I'll be heading to Cafe Sevilla more when I return home, but oh' what fun!
Days 12 and 13-Antigua to Caye Caulker
This morning I met Kelly by the coffee shop in Antigua's market square. She takes me to breakfast at Dona Luisa's, where I have pancakes-they are very good. We catch up w/each other and discuss Guatemalan/Cent Amer politics. For two strong, ind women, it is hard for us to see women so repressed here. Soon after, we head to trade in my Hemingway "Old Man and the Sea" book, which I read on this trip. I decide to donate it to the PC library instead. Since it's market day in Antigua, we head over; it's important to keep an eye on your backpack here, so I attach it to my front. There are children as young as 4 working to shine shoes and sell fruit. At Kelli's house near Antigua, the young girls help to make 400 tortillas a day and shell peas, which will be sent to Green Giant. In the market, I only buy a shot glass for my collection, as everything has been marked up for Semana Santa. In the streets, they are being painted for the celebration. The carpet colors are a deep purple, red, yellow, and green. There are patterns of crosses, flowers and heart. The painters hands are stained from the long hours of work. There are hundreds of tourists working-it is like the 4th of July in PB. At 6 pm the bus to GC is supposed to pick us up, but at 6:30 I am still waiting, so I head to get a burrito. Soon, the guy comes and we end up following him about 20 blocks to the other side of Antigua-I have officially walked ALL OVER this city and am so ready to get to Caye Caulker. In the shuttle there is a funny lady who shares her experiences of the last few weeks-they mimick mine. Once in GC, we are dropped off at the bus station to connect in Flores. The city is dirty and dangerous. We will arrive in Flores at 5 am. Once the bus gets going there is a 'problem' with the clutch and the driver goes around the block twice before heading back for maintenance repairs. Oh, lord! Soon, we leave the city and I experience the worst nights sleep ever...and I have slept in a lot of different places...airports, camp, aunts/grandmas floors...the road is windy/bumpy/cold/uncomfortable and I just want the hell out of Guatemala. How long is it until I get to Caye Caulker. Turns out it takes me 19 hours to get from Antigua to Caye Caulker, but now I have arrived. 2 buses and 1 water taxi later I rolled up to the beautiful caribbean water and 5 steps off the boat I grabbed my room. The warm weather has finally arrived and 30 minutes after checking into my room I had on a snorkel mask and was on another boat jumping in the water. This afternoon I snorkeled 2 coral reefs and with sting rays. That was one of the scariest things I have ever done in my life!!! My heart was beating so fast but it was so amazing. Tonight I am going to hang out with my new hostel mates, including the German guy who's been here for a week now and knows everyone on the island. He only walks around in his speedo and likes to call me 'Jenny from Czechoslovakia.' I said call me whatever you want, but don't call me Jenny. On Sunday there's a huge celebration on this island (which is officially in the middle of nowhere and I LOVE IT) which will include a BBQ, music, beach volleyball, etc. and I can not wait. I am staying here until Wednesday when I catch a plane to NC for a few days and then down to Miami for a cruise around Jamaica/Grand Cayman. At this rate, I am never, ever coming back to SD. Love you all!
This morning I had set my alarm to wake me up at 5, but there was no need as the rooseter crowed outside around 4:30 am. I wanted to kill it. I went ahead and go up, then left some words of advice in the hostel gust book. In the shuttle mini bus the driver packed 27 people inside, not counting the 3 babies that were crying. In Chiquimula we caught a bus to Guatemala City; it's only 7 am and I wouild give anything to see a Starbcks right now. A coca cola will have to do and I settle in the seat behind the driver for the three hour bus ride to GC. On the way he is passing cars like a NASCAR driver and I am pretty sure I am going to die. Once arriving in GC, it is dirty and polluted; htere is traffic everywhere, even though Kyle Britten has sworn to me that there is a Westin here somewhere. I see a sign for a McDonald's, so I am obvioudly back in civilization. At the bus stop, we head righ into McDonald's and I get a Big Mac, after 1 1/2 weeks of travling, sometimes you just need a taste of home. Once back outside, a scumbag taxi driver refuses to give us directions to Zone 3, which is where the bus to Antigua is and this city is disgusting. Another taxi will take us to the bus station, but I don't speak as he is telling Jorge that he hates Americans. Awesome. At the bus stop my backpack barely fite in the rack above my head, but I am not letting it out of my sight. I know for sure I am in a red zone from the DOS and after this posting will be receiving some words of anger from my mother or Aunt Carolyn Poe. In Antigua, we find a place to stay, despite being told the city is sold out 4 months ahead of Semana Santa. We are so tired, we just throw down our bags and don't even catch the name of our hostel. I head to the middle of Antigua and start snapping photos-it is beautiful, the lamp postas, fountains, architecture, there are cobblestone streets. It could be Charleston. There are many churches; I visited Iglesia de San Francisco, Catedral de Santiago, and Iglesia y Convento Nuestro Senora de la Merced. In the middle of town is the Parque Central, which is the gathering place and has beautiful fountains. I also saw the Palacio de los capitenes. Since I wanted to hike a volcano, we cheked out tours and booked one with a sketchy guy on the street. He wasn't too convincing, and then he walked us into another tour company who vouched for him...his name was Manolo and after some bargaining we paid $40 QZ each so tomorrow we will hike Volcano Pacaya. Tonight I just want to get clean, I am so dirty, I want to put on some real woman clothes and feel like a lady. I need a manicure and pedicure. Apparently 1 1/2 weeks without makeup is my limit b/c all the other girls in this town look like they fell out of bed w/out trying and I look like the smelly backpacker I am. So, I came back and took a nice shower, cleaned up and put on the one dress I am backpacking through CA with. We go out to dinner, although I don't think Jorge recognized his backpacking buddy. For dinner we go to La Fonda de la Calle Real, where I attempt to order a martini (in the middle of Guatemala...hey, if they have vodka, I can make it happen). When I return home, I go to the roof, sit down, look at the starts and the volcanoes surrounding town. I am very thankful to be here, for all the new friends I am making and the great time I am having.
Day 11-Antigua
Once again my TIMEX is set for 5:30 am, but there is a new rooster crowing. I look and it says 1:30 am...I am going to KILL that rooster and make him into soup...he crows all night! Finally, my alarm goes off and it is time to hike the volcano! YEAH!!! Something I have never done before.!! We wait on the corner for the shuttle for 30 minutes and are sure that Manolo has run off with our QZ$. Finally, it pulls up...everyone has food bug us. The drive is long, Manolo didn't say anything about a drive, he just showed us pictures of lave and rock. We are basically heading back to GC. We are also passing a lot of food places. Finally, a road and we get there. I ask where the restroom is and a little girl says 'Follow the chickens...' ha ha There are dogs eveywhere, and since I think my roommate Jessica has rabbies since she just got bit by a dog, this is hilarious. The hike to the volcano begins, by a guide who only speaks Spanish. Hmmm...are walkie talkies available? I go through a forest and dirt road, you can take a horse, so I must watch out for manure along the way. It's pretty strenuous, even for me, which Manolo also didn't mention as he was swindling me on the street. At least my camelback is full of water. Soon we come to a clearing and see the volcano, as the clouds move, you can see the top and it is beautiful. I soon find out that there are a few girls from Oregion on my tour and let them know I have some good friends in SD who are big duck fans, too! As we summit to the laava, the smoke filled air is very harsh on my lunch; if Aunt Kelli was here, her asthma would definately kick up. This tour is def dangerous as I am soon climbing over heated rocks, which are very sharp and jagged...no waivers were signed... and when I reach the flowing lave my legs feel as if they are going to peel off. The tour guide pokes his stick in the fire and kicks it up even more; people's shoes are beginning to melt. That was amazing thoug, I just hikes a volcano in Guatemala! The climb down is all downhill and hard on my knees. On the way back I meet a girl named Irene from Switzerland and the three of us go to lunch. Next, the children have their Semana Santa procession...the boys are dressed in deep purple robes and the girls in white lace dresses. The old men are in black suits with band instruments and the music starts. At 6 pm, I head to the main plaza and meet Kelly, my friend from SD, who's here in the Peace Corps. We haven't seen each other since Aug, so the hugs are lo9ng and hard. She introduces me to her friend Rob, and the 3 of us head to a bar called Kafka, where we pick up Jorge on the way. Rob tells us there is a Cuban band playing salsa at Ricky's, so we head over and dance until 1 am! It was so fun; the cuba libres and Brahva's were flowing, the music was loud and the dance floor was packed. I needed some lessons, and anyone who has ever danced with me knows I am not a good follower, so I'll be heading to Cafe Sevilla more when I return home, but oh' what fun!
Days 12 and 13-Antigua to Caye Caulker
This morning I met Kelly by the coffee shop in Antigua's market square. She takes me to breakfast at Dona Luisa's, where I have pancakes-they are very good. We catch up w/each other and discuss Guatemalan/Cent Amer politics. For two strong, ind women, it is hard for us to see women so repressed here. Soon after, we head to trade in my Hemingway "Old Man and the Sea" book, which I read on this trip. I decide to donate it to the PC library instead. Since it's market day in Antigua, we head over; it's important to keep an eye on your backpack here, so I attach it to my front. There are children as young as 4 working to shine shoes and sell fruit. At Kelli's house near Antigua, the young girls help to make 400 tortillas a day and shell peas, which will be sent to Green Giant. In the market, I only buy a shot glass for my collection, as everything has been marked up for Semana Santa. In the streets, they are being painted for the celebration. The carpet colors are a deep purple, red, yellow, and green. There are patterns of crosses, flowers and heart. The painters hands are stained from the long hours of work. There are hundreds of tourists working-it is like the 4th of July in PB. At 6 pm the bus to GC is supposed to pick us up, but at 6:30 I am still waiting, so I head to get a burrito. Soon, the guy comes and we end up following him about 20 blocks to the other side of Antigua-I have officially walked ALL OVER this city and am so ready to get to Caye Caulker. In the shuttle there is a funny lady who shares her experiences of the last few weeks-they mimick mine. Once in GC, we are dropped off at the bus station to connect in Flores. The city is dirty and dangerous. We will arrive in Flores at 5 am. Once the bus gets going there is a 'problem' with the clutch and the driver goes around the block twice before heading back for maintenance repairs. Oh, lord! Soon, we leave the city and I experience the worst nights sleep ever...and I have slept in a lot of different places...airports, camp, aunts/grandmas floors...the road is windy/bumpy/cold/uncomfortable and I just want the hell out of Guatemala. How long is it until I get to Caye Caulker. Turns out it takes me 19 hours to get from Antigua to Caye Caulker, but now I have arrived. 2 buses and 1 water taxi later I rolled up to the beautiful caribbean water and 5 steps off the boat I grabbed my room. The warm weather has finally arrived and 30 minutes after checking into my room I had on a snorkel mask and was on another boat jumping in the water. This afternoon I snorkeled 2 coral reefs and with sting rays. That was one of the scariest things I have ever done in my life!!! My heart was beating so fast but it was so amazing. Tonight I am going to hang out with my new hostel mates, including the German guy who's been here for a week now and knows everyone on the island. He only walks around in his speedo and likes to call me 'Jenny from Czechoslovakia.' I said call me whatever you want, but don't call me Jenny. On Sunday there's a huge celebration on this island (which is officially in the middle of nowhere and I LOVE IT) which will include a BBQ, music, beach volleyball, etc. and I can not wait. I am staying here until Wednesday when I catch a plane to NC for a few days and then down to Miami for a cruise around Jamaica/Grand Cayman. At this rate, I am never, ever coming back to SD. Love you all!
Monday, March 17, 2008
Day 9-Copan Ruinas
Last night after using the slowest internet cafe ever, I head over to the bar across the street called the Red Dragon. They are playing Motley Crue and Snoop Dog...it is very Americanized and the bartender is from Chico (he actually asks me if I know where that is while he wears a Coronado Shores t shirt). After two long hard days I drink plenty of rum and cokes while sitting on a tall bar stool overlooking the town. Jorge and I are minding our own business when the town Gringo transplant begins to hit on me. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I did not come all this way to get hit on by a retired vetirinarian from Colorado, although my travel buddy thinks it is hilarious. The local guy gives us some "insider" information, since he noticed the 2 "journalist" at the cockfight earlier today. He actually sews up the chickens for the townpeople here. He sends us to another local bar, which is across a bridge and it is very dark...I tell Jorge I am going to die because this is where they send blonde Americans, although I speak loudly since I am pretty drunk at this point. Once we decide it's not that safe we turn to head back and meet 4 people from Spain who are environmental scientist researching near Antigua. We all head back to the Red Dragon where Quinn, the local guy, has moved on to a 16 year old Honduran. Good luck to her...The Spainiards are very nice, although I really need to learn some Spanish...Caridad, that will be your job when I return. Our group closes down the bar and in fact the bartender gives us our last beer in a to-go cup and basically kicks us out, even though it is only midnight. On the way home I walk right past the hostel and the worker of the hostel laughs as I stumble in...doesn't he know I am on vacation? This morning I wake up with a slight hangover, but it is nothing that the cold hostel shower water can't cure. I write all my postcards out to my loved ones, but it turns out the post office is closed all week for Holy Week, so you people won't be getting any mail from me. It is so hot here that I tell Jorge we must find a pool, which is at the nicest hotel in town. There are 3 little kids there with their dad and grandpa and I play with them until I fall asleep under the trees. My skin is almost the same color as my Columbian buddy even though I am lathering on the SPF 30. It is now time for the Rodeo!! There is one of those trucks blaring through town with the speakers on top and they tell us we can hitch a ride down to the rodeo park with them....good, because it is hot. Once there we grab some food of carne, salsa, tortillas and this good Honduran beer...I must find it in the states. I am the only woman there and believe me I am working very hard to look my worst everyday. There are more police here then in the Gaslamp on a weekend and their guns are amazing. The bulls are getting revved up so I begin to take my journalistic photos. I also get some of the cowboys as they change their clothes (you know, for all my girlfriends back home). Their muscles are amazing! Pretty soon the queen shows up and then a little tuk tuk car like in India, except this one has bull horns on the front...just like in Texas, I kid you not. As the people pile in the singing starts and it is none other then the winner of the Guatemalen American Idol. OF COURSE I got my photo with him because I may never have that opportunity ever again. After the cowboys draw their placement numbers out of a hat more music starts. It is Alan Jackson and then the Gambler by Kenny Rogers. I am loving this! I know every word and can dance but I really hope it's not how the Honduran people learn their english, by listening to Alan Jackson sing "Chasing that Neon Rainbow." After watching 5 bulls I decide to head back to town. It is hot and tomorrow will be a long day traveling to Antigua. I will try to meet up with my friend Kelly while I am there. She is working for the Peace Corps so the 3 of us should have a great time hiking volcanoes, swimming in the lake and celebrating Holy Friday. Saturday I plan to head back to Caye Caulker where I'll meet up with Iris, a girl from Germany, who was my roomie last night at the Green Apple (the hostel where we are staying in Copan Ruinas). Have a great night.
Sunday, March 16, 2008
San Ignacio, Belize to Copan Ruinas, Honduras
Day 6-San Ignacio to Tikal, Guatemala
Last night after leaving the internet cafe, Jonathan, Jorge and I met up with newlyweds Kendra and Chris; we went to Faya Wata...a bar in San Ignagio that we heard might have karaoke but instead had live regea. I had the best pina colada ever! On the way home the taxi driver gave me step by step instructions of how to cross the border today, so I am set. This morning I left Parrots Nest after thanking Marcus and Toa for a wonderful stay. The wait for a taxi was long, so I was late to meet Jorge, Chris and Kendra *newlyweds from St. Louis* and the wait at the ATM was even longer..it must be payday. We took a cab to the Guatemalan border . At the border I change my Belizian dollars for Quetzals, forgetting that I needed $37 Belizian dollars to exit the country, so I had to borrow money from my travel buddy Jorge to leave Belize! Finally, IO got out of there and they made us pay to get into Guatemala! I thought about the quetzal thing for an hour and still have no clue how the exchange rate is working. Jorge brokered a deal for us with the mini-bus driver to take us to the fork in the road on the way to Tikal, where we waited in the blazing sun for another mini bus to pick us up. It cost $5 QZ each, and I gave the guy a $100 QZ, which took all the change he had. We had lunch in El Remate, a lovely town by a lake, and my tortilla soup was excellent. The restaurant was right on Lago de Peten Itza, so afterwards we put on our suits and took a swim the water was so refreshing and we saw Maya and Naomi, who had stayed at Parrots Nest. There was also an elderly Guatemalan man washing himself in the lake. At 3 pm we caught a bus to Tikal; the landsape in Guatemala is beautifula nd I so enjoy looking out the window. In Tikal I am staying at the campground, which is a large, grassy, area for tents and hammocks. At around $7.50 US tonight I am sleeping in a hammock outside the Tikal ruins. Jorge and I spent 2 hours inside today and I watched the sunset from Tower 4; on the way out we were seperated and my heart beated fast. The guards here carry gunds and there have been stories of rape, so my worst fears entered my mind!! I busted out my pepper spreay (which I am still not too sure how to use; one of my guy friends must teach me when I return to SD( and took off running towards the exit, where I meet up with Jorge and a guard. Whew!! For dinner, we treated ourselves to a BIG meal at the nearby restaurant and I had a Banana Milkshake. There are only so many QZ left though, so tomorrow I pray for an ATM in Flores.
Day 7-Tikal, Guatemala to Copan Ruinas, Honduras
This morning I woke up at 5"15 am when the US hippies, Maya and Naomi, said "are you awake?" Well, I am now...thank you! Jorge and I went into Tikal at 6 am to see the Grand Plaza, and there was fog everywhere; it would have been a waste to pay off the guards to come in early and watch the sunrise *this country is so corrupt*. We had paid a man named Enrique to watch our bags and reserve us a spot on the 8 am mini bus to Flores; when we arrived at 7"53 am he said the bus was already gone. Just as Enrique was ready to givbe us our $ back, the bus pulled back around. The driver was the "Romeo" of the town and pretty soon we were off to Flores, with stories of his women. Along the way we picked up about 20 ppl, all fitting in a 1990Dodge mini van. We arrived in Flores at 9"30 am and bought tickets on the 10 am bus to Chiquimula, a town near the Honduras border..we paid $12 US for the "nice" bus, which is really an old US Greyhoundbus and will take 8 hours to get there. Jorge ended up standing for the first 3 1/2 hours as it was packed. Along the way we stopped every 30 minutes so the ticket taker could stop to see his "girlfriends" in each town, even once stopping to have a beer. All I had eaten was an ice cream bar at the bus stop, so finally 5 hours into the trip, in a little town outside Zacapa, Guatemala, I got some watermelon slices for $3 QZ each. In the beginning I had set next to a Holland tourist headed to Rio Dulce; the day before 4 Belgian tourist were kidnapped there and she was worried...Our bus was soon stopped by the Guatemalan police who searched the bus and by then I was already beginning to sweat. I was thankful Courtland had talked me into bringing myIPOD and turned it on and dozed into a nap. When I woke up I enjoyed the countryside . After Rio Dulce, I taught my new travel buddy Jorge how to play Go Fish for a while until we got to the border town of Chiquilmula, Guatemala. That was the dirtiest town I have ever been to-all the men were drunk*it was 6 pm on Sat* and had no shirts on. It is no place for a single white female, blonde, from the USA..I don't care what the Lonely Planet book says. Their cat calls didn't bother me, as I get that in the states, but there is really no reason to hang out in that town. We got the last 2 seats on a shuttle to Copan Ruinas, where we met 3 women from the USA. I CANNOT belive they were traveling alone. On the way to Honduras, I watched the sunset over the mountains and felt the fresh air; how magnificent. 5 miles from the border our driver told us there would be no taxis or shuttles tow town and he would take us to Copan Ruinas for $15 US/pp...he is CRAZY...that is the same price as Copan to Antigua. After some negotiating for the whole group, Jorge talked him to $7 US/pp. At the border, the Honduras Immigracion moved very slowly and then simply wrote my name in a notebook, with my passport number-oh', so secure! As soon as we were back on the the road the Honduras police stopped us and told the driver he had to ay to let us passs-the driver tried to make us pay, but the police said "NO!! You must pay" So, I felt it was pretty fair...not like MX. We didn't even have to get out of the car. In the end the driver wanted $60 QZ or $3US from us...WHATEVER MAN!!! I have been traveling for 12 hours by now and smell worse then when I finished the marathon last year. Just get me to that Copan Ruinas town! After arriving tonight , we went to Cafe Via Via to see if they had dorms, but they were full, so we headed to the Green Apple. There were only 2 beds left...after some negotiations they were both $4 US, so I got the big double at the same price. I am sharing a room with 2 guys from Mexico City, who are very nice. FINALLY THOUGH..A SHOWER! My mother might disown me if she saw me right now..I stink! I scrub every piece of my body. There is a party tongiht in town, at the Plaza Square, so we head over. We get some pig kabobs with tortillas, beans and salad from the Honduras woman, and 2 beers-I haven't eaten anything but ice cream and watermelon *but don't worry, mom, I took my medicine!* So this food and beer goes down quickly and I soon head back for seconds. I attempt to order the beers, but the Honduran men are so focused on flirting with me that this could take all night, so my traveling buddy must take over. Finally, we head to Cafe Via Via, which doubles as a nightclub, for one more drink to celebrate our hard travels. I LOVE this town' it has a wonderful colonial charm. All the men have on cowboy hats and there is music blaring, dancing going on. If the people were white with Southern accents I would think I was in Texas at a street dance. Tomorrow there is a huge market and procession for Holy week, as well as the crowning of a beauty queen, so we will watch that before heading to Copan.
Day 8-Copan Ruinas/Copan
I was woken up at 5 am when my Mexico City roomiwes left-then I awoke at 8 am to a new hippie girl on the bottom bunk. When did she come in? I think about making oatmeal and decide to eat at the market instead. At the market the colors of fruits and vegitables are so beautiful. I get eggs and black beans with tortillas and a PEPSI *did I mention that PEPSI is everywhere here?* Jeff Gordon could be an ambassador to Central America. All of this costs me less then $2 US. Over breakfasts I talk with the mother of the cook; she is the town midwife an hour and a half away. She has delivered 65 babies in the last 5 years and also works in the coffee fields for less then $2 US/day. Everyone in the town works in the coffee fields and the coffee owner basically owns the whole town. After breakfast I wait for the Holy procession; it is supposed to come at 10 am, but doesn't arrive until 11"30. It is so beautiful; all the village people are holding things that look like corn stalks and I follow everyone into church, where I listen to the beginning of mass. Afterwards we walk to the site of Copan, where the ancient city once stood. The remains that are left are unbelievable; the carvings of the ruins are so intricate and detailed...they must have spent years on them. Stela C is my favorite, with a turle shaped altar. It is so hot here though and I have re-applied my SPF like 4 times. I still look Latina and everyone begins a full Spanish conversation with me. On the way out we see a family of Guacamayas and I come up close as they eat their pineapple. I get close enough to touch and take my photo with them!! They are amazing...We also meet up with the 3 American women again and they said their tour guide was a "bullshitter." It sounds like money well spent to me. As we walk back to town there is a gathering on the right side of the road so we head over. Turns out it is a cockfight ring so we stay to watch *I know some of my friends will not agree, but I got a lot of photos for you to send to PETA.* These are the top men in Central America here; every weekend the cockfighting changes towns; we tell them we are journalists sent to Honduras on a story, so they allow us to get up close and personal and take lots of very good photos...even holding some of the chickens...who knows what kinds of diseases I picked up today. Anyway, there is so much money running through this place, while right outside people are working for nothing. We have some beers while we take our journalistic photos and this way all of the men in Honduras think I am important and don't mess with me; I am like a queen. Tomorrow there is a rodeo and then the queen will be crowned we have found out so I will stay tonight and another night before heading to Antigua. It's great! I wasn't even going to come to Honduras, but now I love this town...it's so cute and the architecture is amazing. Tonight I headed to the bank to take out some more Lempiras and it said invalid transaction...apparently I have taken all the money out of this country. The money is Central America is so out of whack, but it's so cheap here I can live forever. I sent my laundry off tonight and it was only $2.50...the last time I did that in SD it was $60. Talk to you later.
Last night after leaving the internet cafe, Jonathan, Jorge and I met up with newlyweds Kendra and Chris; we went to Faya Wata...a bar in San Ignagio that we heard might have karaoke but instead had live regea. I had the best pina colada ever! On the way home the taxi driver gave me step by step instructions of how to cross the border today, so I am set. This morning I left Parrots Nest after thanking Marcus and Toa for a wonderful stay. The wait for a taxi was long, so I was late to meet Jorge, Chris and Kendra *newlyweds from St. Louis* and the wait at the ATM was even longer..it must be payday. We took a cab to the Guatemalan border . At the border I change my Belizian dollars for Quetzals, forgetting that I needed $37 Belizian dollars to exit the country, so I had to borrow money from my travel buddy Jorge to leave Belize! Finally, IO got out of there and they made us pay to get into Guatemala! I thought about the quetzal thing for an hour and still have no clue how the exchange rate is working. Jorge brokered a deal for us with the mini-bus driver to take us to the fork in the road on the way to Tikal, where we waited in the blazing sun for another mini bus to pick us up. It cost $5 QZ each, and I gave the guy a $100 QZ, which took all the change he had. We had lunch in El Remate, a lovely town by a lake, and my tortilla soup was excellent. The restaurant was right on Lago de Peten Itza, so afterwards we put on our suits and took a swim the water was so refreshing and we saw Maya and Naomi, who had stayed at Parrots Nest. There was also an elderly Guatemalan man washing himself in the lake. At 3 pm we caught a bus to Tikal; the landsape in Guatemala is beautifula nd I so enjoy looking out the window. In Tikal I am staying at the campground, which is a large, grassy, area for tents and hammocks. At around $7.50 US tonight I am sleeping in a hammock outside the Tikal ruins. Jorge and I spent 2 hours inside today and I watched the sunset from Tower 4; on the way out we were seperated and my heart beated fast. The guards here carry gunds and there have been stories of rape, so my worst fears entered my mind!! I busted out my pepper spreay (which I am still not too sure how to use; one of my guy friends must teach me when I return to SD( and took off running towards the exit, where I meet up with Jorge and a guard. Whew!! For dinner, we treated ourselves to a BIG meal at the nearby restaurant and I had a Banana Milkshake. There are only so many QZ left though, so tomorrow I pray for an ATM in Flores.
Day 7-Tikal, Guatemala to Copan Ruinas, Honduras
This morning I woke up at 5"15 am when the US hippies, Maya and Naomi, said "are you awake?" Well, I am now...thank you! Jorge and I went into Tikal at 6 am to see the Grand Plaza, and there was fog everywhere; it would have been a waste to pay off the guards to come in early and watch the sunrise *this country is so corrupt*. We had paid a man named Enrique to watch our bags and reserve us a spot on the 8 am mini bus to Flores; when we arrived at 7"53 am he said the bus was already gone. Just as Enrique was ready to givbe us our $ back, the bus pulled back around. The driver was the "Romeo" of the town and pretty soon we were off to Flores, with stories of his women. Along the way we picked up about 20 ppl, all fitting in a 1990Dodge mini van. We arrived in Flores at 9"30 am and bought tickets on the 10 am bus to Chiquimula, a town near the Honduras border..we paid $12 US for the "nice" bus, which is really an old US Greyhoundbus and will take 8 hours to get there. Jorge ended up standing for the first 3 1/2 hours as it was packed. Along the way we stopped every 30 minutes so the ticket taker could stop to see his "girlfriends" in each town, even once stopping to have a beer. All I had eaten was an ice cream bar at the bus stop, so finally 5 hours into the trip, in a little town outside Zacapa, Guatemala, I got some watermelon slices for $3 QZ each. In the beginning I had set next to a Holland tourist headed to Rio Dulce; the day before 4 Belgian tourist were kidnapped there and she was worried...Our bus was soon stopped by the Guatemalan police who searched the bus and by then I was already beginning to sweat. I was thankful Courtland had talked me into bringing myIPOD and turned it on and dozed into a nap. When I woke up I enjoyed the countryside . After Rio Dulce, I taught my new travel buddy Jorge how to play Go Fish for a while until we got to the border town of Chiquilmula, Guatemala. That was the dirtiest town I have ever been to-all the men were drunk*it was 6 pm on Sat* and had no shirts on. It is no place for a single white female, blonde, from the USA..I don't care what the Lonely Planet book says. Their cat calls didn't bother me, as I get that in the states, but there is really no reason to hang out in that town. We got the last 2 seats on a shuttle to Copan Ruinas, where we met 3 women from the USA. I CANNOT belive they were traveling alone. On the way to Honduras, I watched the sunset over the mountains and felt the fresh air; how magnificent. 5 miles from the border our driver told us there would be no taxis or shuttles tow town and he would take us to Copan Ruinas for $15 US/pp...he is CRAZY...that is the same price as Copan to Antigua. After some negotiating for the whole group, Jorge talked him to $7 US/pp. At the border, the Honduras Immigracion moved very slowly and then simply wrote my name in a notebook, with my passport number-oh', so secure! As soon as we were back on the the road the Honduras police stopped us and told the driver he had to ay to let us passs-the driver tried to make us pay, but the police said "NO!! You must pay" So, I felt it was pretty fair...not like MX. We didn't even have to get out of the car. In the end the driver wanted $60 QZ or $3US from us...WHATEVER MAN!!! I have been traveling for 12 hours by now and smell worse then when I finished the marathon last year. Just get me to that Copan Ruinas town! After arriving tonight , we went to Cafe Via Via to see if they had dorms, but they were full, so we headed to the Green Apple. There were only 2 beds left...after some negotiations they were both $4 US, so I got the big double at the same price. I am sharing a room with 2 guys from Mexico City, who are very nice. FINALLY THOUGH..A SHOWER! My mother might disown me if she saw me right now..I stink! I scrub every piece of my body. There is a party tongiht in town, at the Plaza Square, so we head over. We get some pig kabobs with tortillas, beans and salad from the Honduras woman, and 2 beers-I haven't eaten anything but ice cream and watermelon *but don't worry, mom, I took my medicine!* So this food and beer goes down quickly and I soon head back for seconds. I attempt to order the beers, but the Honduran men are so focused on flirting with me that this could take all night, so my traveling buddy must take over. Finally, we head to Cafe Via Via, which doubles as a nightclub, for one more drink to celebrate our hard travels. I LOVE this town' it has a wonderful colonial charm. All the men have on cowboy hats and there is music blaring, dancing going on. If the people were white with Southern accents I would think I was in Texas at a street dance. Tomorrow there is a huge market and procession for Holy week, as well as the crowning of a beauty queen, so we will watch that before heading to Copan.
Day 8-Copan Ruinas/Copan
I was woken up at 5 am when my Mexico City roomiwes left-then I awoke at 8 am to a new hippie girl on the bottom bunk. When did she come in? I think about making oatmeal and decide to eat at the market instead. At the market the colors of fruits and vegitables are so beautiful. I get eggs and black beans with tortillas and a PEPSI *did I mention that PEPSI is everywhere here?* Jeff Gordon could be an ambassador to Central America. All of this costs me less then $2 US. Over breakfasts I talk with the mother of the cook; she is the town midwife an hour and a half away. She has delivered 65 babies in the last 5 years and also works in the coffee fields for less then $2 US/day. Everyone in the town works in the coffee fields and the coffee owner basically owns the whole town. After breakfast I wait for the Holy procession; it is supposed to come at 10 am, but doesn't arrive until 11"30. It is so beautiful; all the village people are holding things that look like corn stalks and I follow everyone into church, where I listen to the beginning of mass. Afterwards we walk to the site of Copan, where the ancient city once stood. The remains that are left are unbelievable; the carvings of the ruins are so intricate and detailed...they must have spent years on them. Stela C is my favorite, with a turle shaped altar. It is so hot here though and I have re-applied my SPF like 4 times. I still look Latina and everyone begins a full Spanish conversation with me. On the way out we see a family of Guacamayas and I come up close as they eat their pineapple. I get close enough to touch and take my photo with them!! They are amazing...We also meet up with the 3 American women again and they said their tour guide was a "bullshitter." It sounds like money well spent to me. As we walk back to town there is a gathering on the right side of the road so we head over. Turns out it is a cockfight ring so we stay to watch *I know some of my friends will not agree, but I got a lot of photos for you to send to PETA.* These are the top men in Central America here; every weekend the cockfighting changes towns; we tell them we are journalists sent to Honduras on a story, so they allow us to get up close and personal and take lots of very good photos...even holding some of the chickens...who knows what kinds of diseases I picked up today. Anyway, there is so much money running through this place, while right outside people are working for nothing. We have some beers while we take our journalistic photos and this way all of the men in Honduras think I am important and don't mess with me; I am like a queen. Tomorrow there is a rodeo and then the queen will be crowned we have found out so I will stay tonight and another night before heading to Antigua. It's great! I wasn't even going to come to Honduras, but now I love this town...it's so cute and the architecture is amazing. Tonight I headed to the bank to take out some more Lempiras and it said invalid transaction...apparently I have taken all the money out of this country. The money is Central America is so out of whack, but it's so cheap here I can live forever. I sent my laundry off tonight and it was only $2.50...the last time I did that in SD it was $60. Talk to you later.
Thursday, March 13, 2008
Orange Walk to San Ignacio, Belize
Day 1: San Diego Airport to Belize City
So here I am at the SAN airport waiting to get away from it all. I am so excited to be heading out on this trip where my blackberry doesn't beep and there are no battles to be fought in the East Village. I board the plane, only to sit on there for 2 1/2 hours due to a "fuel" problem; I arrived to my connecting flight in Charlotte with an hour to spare. The guy next to me was also going to Orange City to conduct sugar research at the sugarcane factory and he and his partner offered me a ride into town. The first ride I have ever "hitched" in my life.
Day 2: Orange Walk
I arrive in Orange Walk and score a $10 room at the Akihoto Hotel. The whole town is closed for Baron Bliss day, and to be honest Orange Walk is only one step below Tijuana (all it needs is a Revolution). I can not believe I am paying to sleep in "TJ," but it's the only place in the whole country of Belize where I can take the tour up to Lamanai. Orange Walk is a mixture of Chinese and Mennonites (do your research people), and is one of the weirdest towns I've ever been in. After watching an episode of 'Sex and the City' on my $10 satellite TV, I go to bed promptly at 8:30 pm.
Day 3: Orange Walk/Lamanai River Tour/to San Ignacio
This is where it really starts to get good. Thank goodness I wore the Ironman TIMEX watch Katie gave me, because it has an alarm on it, which works out handy for waking me up to go on all the tours I have signed up for. Although, I really didn't need it, due to the wonderful trash trucks in Orange Walk that woke me up at 6 am (it's just like the East Village). I head over to Jungle River Tours to take the boat up New River to Lamanai. After a quick 10 minute tour of the town, our guide leads us to the boat. I meet a new friend named Jorge, who is from Monterrey, Mexico. Immediately on the boat we spot a crocodile, so close to my side I think I am Steve Irwin. Soon there are iguanas and birds, too. More crocs follow and so do boats with little boys catching fish. Another tour boat pulls up and buys the boys fish. Once at Lamanai we are treated to a wonderful lunch of chicken, rice, potato salad, and fried plantains before hiking the ruins. Once we returned to town Jorge and I were joined by a Canadian couple who all hightailed it out of there on the next bus to Belize City. 3 hours later I arrived in San Ignacio where there was no room left at the inn for me, so I called the guy from couchsurfing.com who I made contact with a few weeks back. Turns out his girlfriend owns one of the nicest resorts in town and put me up in a tiki cabana at the Parrot's Nest for the last few nights at no cost. I was so tired after arriving I fell right asleep.
Day 4: ATM (Actun tunichil Muknal)
This morning I left Parrot's Nest (after waking up to birds chirping in paradise) and caught a $2 Belizian/$1 US cab ride into town. Once in town I tried to buy fruit from a street vendor, but she wouldn't accept my American money...obviously she has caught on to the recession as well. So, I bought a huge fruit and granola plate at Eva's restaurant, which I ate on the way to ATM. It was one of the most incredible sights I have ever experienced. On the way to ATM, I sat next to one of the tour guides who told me all aobut his family-his brother used to be a BZ Senator (everyone here is WAY more interested in the US election then Americans). At ATM, our tour guide Martin gave us more information then I could ever process. He was like Wikipedia himself. Once at the caves you swim into limestone and we spent 4 hours inside donning headlamps and hardhats...so cool! We were wet the whole time and saw the remains of a Mayan princess who had been offered to the gods as well as pottery. After we came out we had a bad lunch of tuna sandwiches before heading back to San Ignacio. When I came back to Parrot's Nest last night I got moved to an even nicer room; they are awesome!
Day 5: Caracol
This morning I got up early and made my own breakfast of items I backpacked down to Belize. Then I came into town early to see a little bit of it (which only took 10 minutes). Our rickety old van was 20 minutes late as he needed a police escort to take us to Caracol. It is aout 56 miles south of San Ignacio, through a vast jungle on a rugged unpaved road. This is the largest Mayan site in Belize and it's estimated that at one time around 150,000 Mayans lived there. We climbed all around and even into the tombs! Afterwards, we headed back and stopped for an hour at Thousand Foot Falls and took in a refreshing dip. The water felt so good and the waterfalls were beautiful as well. As I backstroked I thought how great it is to be here. Tomorrow I will continue towards Tikal and Flores, before heading down to Copan in Honduras and back up to Antigua for Semana Santa celebrations. Finally, I'll go towards Caye Caulker. Talk to you later!
So here I am at the SAN airport waiting to get away from it all. I am so excited to be heading out on this trip where my blackberry doesn't beep and there are no battles to be fought in the East Village. I board the plane, only to sit on there for 2 1/2 hours due to a "fuel" problem; I arrived to my connecting flight in Charlotte with an hour to spare. The guy next to me was also going to Orange City to conduct sugar research at the sugarcane factory and he and his partner offered me a ride into town. The first ride I have ever "hitched" in my life.
Day 2: Orange Walk
I arrive in Orange Walk and score a $10 room at the Akihoto Hotel. The whole town is closed for Baron Bliss day, and to be honest Orange Walk is only one step below Tijuana (all it needs is a Revolution). I can not believe I am paying to sleep in "TJ," but it's the only place in the whole country of Belize where I can take the tour up to Lamanai. Orange Walk is a mixture of Chinese and Mennonites (do your research people), and is one of the weirdest towns I've ever been in. After watching an episode of 'Sex and the City' on my $10 satellite TV, I go to bed promptly at 8:30 pm.
Day 3: Orange Walk/Lamanai River Tour/to San Ignacio
This is where it really starts to get good. Thank goodness I wore the Ironman TIMEX watch Katie gave me, because it has an alarm on it, which works out handy for waking me up to go on all the tours I have signed up for. Although, I really didn't need it, due to the wonderful trash trucks in Orange Walk that woke me up at 6 am (it's just like the East Village). I head over to Jungle River Tours to take the boat up New River to Lamanai. After a quick 10 minute tour of the town, our guide leads us to the boat. I meet a new friend named Jorge, who is from Monterrey, Mexico. Immediately on the boat we spot a crocodile, so close to my side I think I am Steve Irwin. Soon there are iguanas and birds, too. More crocs follow and so do boats with little boys catching fish. Another tour boat pulls up and buys the boys fish. Once at Lamanai we are treated to a wonderful lunch of chicken, rice, potato salad, and fried plantains before hiking the ruins. Once we returned to town Jorge and I were joined by a Canadian couple who all hightailed it out of there on the next bus to Belize City. 3 hours later I arrived in San Ignacio where there was no room left at the inn for me, so I called the guy from couchsurfing.com who I made contact with a few weeks back. Turns out his girlfriend owns one of the nicest resorts in town and put me up in a tiki cabana at the Parrot's Nest for the last few nights at no cost. I was so tired after arriving I fell right asleep.
Day 4: ATM (Actun tunichil Muknal)
This morning I left Parrot's Nest (after waking up to birds chirping in paradise) and caught a $2 Belizian/$1 US cab ride into town. Once in town I tried to buy fruit from a street vendor, but she wouldn't accept my American money...obviously she has caught on to the recession as well. So, I bought a huge fruit and granola plate at Eva's restaurant, which I ate on the way to ATM. It was one of the most incredible sights I have ever experienced. On the way to ATM, I sat next to one of the tour guides who told me all aobut his family-his brother used to be a BZ Senator (everyone here is WAY more interested in the US election then Americans). At ATM, our tour guide Martin gave us more information then I could ever process. He was like Wikipedia himself. Once at the caves you swim into limestone and we spent 4 hours inside donning headlamps and hardhats...so cool! We were wet the whole time and saw the remains of a Mayan princess who had been offered to the gods as well as pottery. After we came out we had a bad lunch of tuna sandwiches before heading back to San Ignacio. When I came back to Parrot's Nest last night I got moved to an even nicer room; they are awesome!
Day 5: Caracol
This morning I got up early and made my own breakfast of items I backpacked down to Belize. Then I came into town early to see a little bit of it (which only took 10 minutes). Our rickety old van was 20 minutes late as he needed a police escort to take us to Caracol. It is aout 56 miles south of San Ignacio, through a vast jungle on a rugged unpaved road. This is the largest Mayan site in Belize and it's estimated that at one time around 150,000 Mayans lived there. We climbed all around and even into the tombs! Afterwards, we headed back and stopped for an hour at Thousand Foot Falls and took in a refreshing dip. The water felt so good and the waterfalls were beautiful as well. As I backstroked I thought how great it is to be here. Tomorrow I will continue towards Tikal and Flores, before heading down to Copan in Honduras and back up to Antigua for Semana Santa celebrations. Finally, I'll go towards Caye Caulker. Talk to you later!
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